1971 Opel GT Full Restoration

Now we began to prime the body, first with an acid etching primer. The acid etch can bond to the metal even if there are some oils.

Next a surfacer primer is used to hide small scratches and fill imperfections.

Now we needed to paint the bottom of the car so the assembly process could begin. We hung the car from the straps again, this time using pipes in the jack holes to attach the straps to. Then we placed a sawhorse under the transmission tunnel on the inside of the car.

I did not take a lot of pictures of this step as I was to busy with the work.

Next, a coat of surfacer primer was applied to cover any minor imperfections.

We then placed the car back upright on sawhorses again to spray the engine compartment. In my opinion, it is necessary to completely reassemble the car and test-drive it prior to the finial paint being applied. That way, if any major work would need to be redone, there would be no chance of scratching the paint. We did feel it was important to jam out the doors and window openings to get paint under the rubber.

Then we began to reassemble.

With my red and white theme all of the parts are painted and the wheel openings are coated with undercoating to protect from rock damage. Even the brake lines were cleaned inside and out, and then sprayed white.

With more time than money, we used wire wheels and spray paint to get all of the parts to look the way we wanted them to.

All new red poly bushings, fully rebuilt BIG front calipers and rotors, Stage II spring, new bearings and seals, all new ball joints and tie rods, new rubber boots and drop lines.

Before and after, precut for CD head unit. All gauge and face work was done in my garage and was a somewhat difficult to complete and took some time, but the result was worth it.

The tachometer goes to 8000 RPM and the speedometer goes to 180 MPH. SWEET! Still a work in progress, I am looking for an EcoTec engine for the car.